Fish care guide

Which tank for your goldfish

Goldfish are popular freshwater fish known for their bright colors and distinctive appearance. They come in various shapes, sizes, and colors, making them a favorite among aquarists. Goldfish are hardy and can adapt to a wide range of water conditions, making them suitable for beginners. However, they require spacious tanks with ample filtration due to their messy eating habits and high waste production. It’s important to avoid overfeeding them and to provide adequate space to prevent health issues like swim bladder problems. With proper care, goldfish can live for many years and bring joy to aquarium enthusiasts.

Choosing the right tank for your goldfish is crucial for their health and well-being. Here are some factors to consider:

1. Size: Goldfish can grow quite large, so it’s important to provide them with adequate space. A general rule of thumb is to allow at least 20 gallons of water per goldfish. For example, if you have two goldfish, you’ll need a minimum of a 40-gallon tank. Larger tanks are often better as they provide more stable water parameters and room for the fish to swim.
2. Shape: While rectangular tanks are the most common choice for goldfish, consider the shape as well. Goldfish are bottom feeders and can create a lot of waste, so tanks with a larger surface area are preferable as they provide better oxygen exchange and filtration.
3. Material: Tanks are commonly made of glass or acrylic. Both have their pros and cons. Glass is scratch-resistant but heavier, while acrylic is lighter and less prone to breakage but can scratch more easily.
4. Filtration: Proper filtration is essential for maintaining water quality in a goldfish tank. Look for a filtration system that is rated for the size of your tank and provides both mechanical and biological filtration.
5. Aeration: Goldfish require well-oxygenated water. Consider adding an air pump and air stone to increase oxygen exchange at the surface of the water.
6. Substrate: Goldfish tend to root around in the substrate, so choose a substrate that won’t cause injury or impaction if ingested. Smooth gravel or sand are good options.
7. Decorations: Goldfish appreciate having places to hide and explore. Include a variety of decorations such as plants, rocks, and caves, but ensure they are safe and won’t harm the fish.
8. Lighting: While goldfish don’t have specific lighting requirements, providing a natural day-night cycle with a timer can help regulate their behavior and reduce stress.
9. Location: Place the tank in a location away from direct sunlight and drafts to prevent temperature fluctuations and algae growth.

Remember to cycle your tank before adding goldfish to establish beneficial bacteria that will help  break down waste. Regular maintenance, including water changes and filter cleaning, is also crucial for keeping your goldfish healthy.

Best Tank Mates for Betta Fish

“Betta fish, also known as Siamese fighting fish, have a reputation for their territorial behavior, particularly towards their own species. However, with careful planning and consideration, they can peacefully cohabit with certain tank mates in a well-designed aquarium environment.

To ensure a harmonious community tank, it’s crucial to provide ample space and suitable hiding spots for all inhabitants. A tank size of at least 10 to 20 gallons is recommended to accommodate the various species comfortably. Decorate the tank with live plants, driftwood, and caves to create territories and break sightlines, reducing the chances of aggressive confrontations.

Here are five popular tank mates that can coexist peacefully with bettas:

1. Neon Tetras: These small, schooling fish are known for their vibrant colors and active swimming behavior. Keeping them in groups of six or more helps distribute any aggression and provides a sense of security for each individual.
2. Corydoras Catfish: Corydoras are peaceful bottom-dwelling fish that can help keep the tank substrate clean by scavenging for food. They come in various species, such as bronze, panda, and peppered, and are generally compatible with bettas due to their calm demeanor.
3. While they are typically too small to provoke aggression from bettas, it’s essential to introduce them gradually and monitor their interactions.
4. Mystery Snails: These slow-moving snails are beneficial for algae control and add visual interest to the tank. Opt for larger mystery snail species to avoid them being mistaken as food by bettas, and ensure the tank has adequate calcium levels to support their shell health.
5. Ember tetra: These 1-inch, red-orange tetras are vibrant and energetic, making them an excellent addition to any aquarium with a capacity of 10 gallons or more. To ensure their well-being and promote natural behavior, it’s recommended to keep at least five to six of them together, allowing them to form a cohesive school that adds movement and life to the tank. By schooling together, they create a visually appealing display while also making it more challenging for the betta fish to single out any individual.

These tetras typically inhabit the middle region of the tank, adding activity and color to the aquatic environment. Their gentle nature and omnivorous diet make them compatible tank mates for bettas, as they can comfortably share the same food sources. When paired with a bright blue or solid white betta fish, the contrasting colors create a striking visual display that enhances the overall aesthetics of the aquarium, captivating the attention of any observer.

Overall, these red-orange tetras contribute to a dynamic and harmonious community tank, providing both visual interest and compatibility with bettas. With their lively behavior and captivating colors, they are sure to be admired by aquarists of all levels.”

When introducing tank mates, it’s essential to do so gradually to minimize stress and aggression. Monitor their interactions closely, especially during feeding times and territorial disputes. If any aggression is observed, it may be necessary to rearrange tank decorations or provide additional hiding spots. Additionally, always research the specific care requirements of each species to ensure compatibility in terms of water parameters, temperature, and diet.

By carefully selecting tank mates and creating a well-balanced environment, betta fish enthusiasts can enjoy a thriving community tank filled with diverse aquatic life.”

Care Guide for Cardinal Tetras — Gorgeous Cousin of the Neon Tetra

These 1-inch red-orange tetras are lively additions to aquariums of 10 gallons or more. Keeping at least five to six together allows them to school, making it harder for bettas to single out individuals. They swim in the middle of the tank and share the same diet as bettas, simplifying feeding routines. Pair them with a bright blue or solid white betta for a visually striking display.

What are cardinal tetra?

This 2-inch, beginner-friendly fish boasts a bright orange body with a striking black triangular patch, adding visual appeal to any aquarium. Like ember tetras, it’s advisable to purchase a school of at least six rasboras to promote socialization among them. Due to their peaceful demeanor, they won’t compete aggressively for food, allowing your betta fish to feed without disturbance. While your betta may exhibit mild chasing behavior, it typically poses no serious threat and provides beneficial exercise and enrichment. For comprehensive care instructions, refer to our detailed rasbora care guide.

Setting Up an Aquarium for Cardinal Tetras

Cardinal tetras thrive in environments mimicking the slow-moving waterways of heavily shaded rainforests, characterized by dense vegetation. Their native habitats vary from blackwater streams with acidic pH, low mineral content, and brown tannins caused by decaying leaves, to clearwater streams with nearly neutral pH and abundant plant growth. Due to their adaptable nature, cardinal tetras can be kept in pH levels ranging from 4.0 to 7.5, with soft to moderate water hardness, and temperatures between 73–84°F (23–29°C). These small fish are accustomed to hiding amongst live aquarium plants, leaf litter, and driftwood along riverbanks to evade predators, hunt, and breed.

Ideal Group Size: Cardinal tetras are schooling fish, finding safety in numbers. It’s recommended to keep a minimum of 6 individuals, though for a 15- to 20-gallon aquarium or larger, a group of 8–10 cardinal tetras would be preferable to ensure their comfort.

Compatible Tankmates: These peaceful midwater dwellers coexist well with similar-sized community species. Consider adding top-dwelling fish such as pencilfish and hatchetfish, along with bottom dwellers like corydoras catfish and kuhli loaches to provide activity at all levels of the tank. Algae eaters such as snails, otocinclus, and bristlenose plecos also make suitable tankmates. Due to their tolerance for higher temperatures, cardinal tetras can be paired with species like discus, angelfish, German blue rams, and apistogramma cichlids, provided the tetras are full-grown to avoid becoming prey. With calmer betta fish, cardinal tetras typically coexist peacefully, provided there are plenty of hiding spots. While adult dwarf shrimp are usually left alone, ensure a well-established shrimp colony before introducing cardinal tetras, as they may opportunistically prey on shrimp fry.

What do cardinal tetras eat?

In their natural habitat, cardinal tetras primarily consume small crustaceans, insect larvae, tiny worms, and zooplankton. They are not particularly selective eaters and readily consume small-sized fish foods. Commonly preferred prepared foods include crushed flakes, nano pellets, freeze-dried tubifex worms, and Easy Fry and Small Fish Food. Additionally, they enjoy daphnia, frozen cyclops, and live baby brine shrimp. Providing a diverse diet ensures they receive a wide range of nutrients and vitamins essential for their overall health and longevity.

How to breed cardinal tetras?

To breed cardinal tetras, set up a 5- or 10-gallon breeding tank with acidic pH below 6.0, low GH, and a temperature around 80°F (27–29°C). Provide catappa leaves or java fern as spawning material, covered with plastic craft mesh to protect eggs. Condition adults with high protein foods like live baby brine shrimp. Select the best-looking male and female or keep a group of at least 6 tetras in the breeding tank. Keep the tank dark to protect sensitive eggs and remove adults once eggs appear.

Eggs typically hatch in 1–3 days. Newborns initially cannot swim and have underdeveloped eyes. After 3–4 days, they become free-swimming and can feed on infusoria, live vinegar eels, and green water. Gradually introduce live baby brine shrimp for better survival.

Care Guide for Mystery Snails — Entertaining and Useful Scavenger

While many aquarium enthusiasts may find pest snails like bladder, ramshorn, and Malaysian trumpet snails undesirable due to their rapid population growth, mystery snails (Pomacea diffusa and P. bridgesii) offer a delightful alternative. These charming invertebrates are readily available at local pet or fish stores for a modest price of $3–4. Unlike their pest counterparts, mystery snails do not possess the ability to self-fertilize or change their sex, making it significantly easier to manage their breeding.

Moreover, unlike their larger apple snail relatives, mystery snails are not known to devour aquarium plants, alleviating concerns about potential damage to aquatic vegetation. With their bold and colorful appearance, mystery snails add visual interest to any aquarium setup while also serving as low-maintenance pets.

Discover why these captivating invertebrates are a joy to own and learn how to provide them with optimal care to ensure their health and well-being. Whether you’re a novice or experienced aquarium keeper, mystery snails are sure to enhance the beauty and diversity of your aquatic ecosystem.

What are Mystery Snails?

Mystery snails, also known as spike-topped apple snails, are vibrant freshwater aquarium inhabitants recognized for their distinctive shell shape and diverse coloration. Typically smaller, reaching about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter, they come in various hues like golden yellow, blue, magenta, and more. These snails are excellent scavengers, consuming excess fish food, decaying matter, and unhealthy plant leaves to maintain water quality. They display active behavior, often climbing tank surfaces and extending their long breathing siphon. While they possess both gills and lungs, allowing them to breathe in and out of water, their ability to float or descend adds to their intriguing nature. Identifying a deceased snail can be tricky, but a lack of movement for 24–48 hours and an unpleasant odor may indicate death. Typically living 1–2 years, their lifespan can vary based on water temperature. Overall, mystery snails are fascinating and beneficial additions to freshwater tanks, enriching the ecosystem while adding visual interest.

How to Set Up an Aquarium for Mystery Snails?

Setting up an aquarium for mystery snails requires attention to water parameters and tank mates to ensure their well-being. Here’s a guide on how to create an ideal environment for these fascinating invertebrates:

1. Water Parameters: Mystery snails require water rich in calcium and other minerals to promote healthy shell growth. If you notice pits or divots in their shells, consider supplementing their diet with mineral supplements like Wonder Shell or Seachem Equilibrium. Maintain temperatures between 70–78°F (21–26°C), a pH level of at least 7.2, and GH (general hardness) above 150 ppm (or 8 degrees).
2. Tank Size and Setup: Due to their size, one or two mystery snails can thrive in a 5-gallon aquarium or larger. Ensure the tank has a tight-fitting lid to prevent escape, as these snails may crawl out if given the opportunity. While mystery snails are generally safe to keep with aquarium plants, be mindful that they may accidentally uproot new plants, especially in loose substrate.
3. Compatibility with Tank Mates: Mystery snails are peaceful invertebrates and can coexist with many community fish that share similar water parameter requirements. However, avoid housing them with snail-eating species like puffer fish, certain loaches, and turtles. Additionally, steer clear of fish that may nibble on their long antennae. Suitable tank mates may include dwarf shrimp, tetras, kuhli loaches, corydoras catfish, and calmer betta fish.
4. Avoiding Medications: Like most snails, mystery snails are sensitive to salt and copper-based medications. If treating the aquarium with these chemicals, remove the snails temporarily to prevent harm.

By ensuring the proper water conditions, providing a suitable tank setup, selecting compatible tank mates, and avoiding harmful medications, you can create an optimal environment for mystery snails to thrive in your aquarium.

What Do Mystery Snails Eat?

Mystery snails, being scavengers, have voracious appetites and are not particularly selective in their food choices. In an aquarium setting, they consume a wide array of foods, including fish food, algae, biofilm, deceased organic matter like fish or plant material, and even small floating plants like duckweed. They are known to scavenge continuously, often surprising aquarists with the amount they can consume.

Interestingly, mystery snails have a unique feeding behavior where they can form a funnel-like shape with their foot to gather floating food particles such as fish flakes. However, they predominantly feed on surfaces, grazing on algae growth and biofilm or foraging for food particles on the substrate.

To ensure their dietary needs are met and promote strong shell growth, it’s advisable to provide a diverse diet. This may include commercial snail foods like Hikari Crab Cuisine, shrimp foods, and calcium-rich vegetables such as blanched spinach or kale. Additionally, some aquarists create homemade “snello” or snail jello by mixing Repashy gel food with calcium supplements, offering a nutritious and calcium-rich treat.

Overall, ensuring a balanced diet for mystery snails contributes to their overall health and vitality in the aquarium.

One fascinating aspect of mystery snails is their unique reproductive behavior: they lay their eggs above water to protect them from potential predators. To manage their breeding and prevent unwanted population growth, consider these tips:

1. Limit Population: Opt for just one mystery snail per aquarium. Since each snail is either male or female and cannot change sexes, keeping only one will prevent reproduction altogether.
2. Choose Juveniles: Female mystery snails can store sperm for extended periods, so selecting snails under 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter, typically juveniles, reduces the likelihood of them being sexually mature and capable of breeding.
3. Manage Water Level: Maintain the water level in the aquarium within 1.5 inches (4 cm) or less from the top. This restricts the space available for snails to lay their eggs out of the water, effectively minimizing the chances of successful egg-laying.
4. Remove Egg Clusters: If snails manage to lay eggs on the aquarium lid or hood, promptly remove the egg clusters before they hatch. This prevents the emergence of new snail offspring and helps control the population.

By implementing these strategies, you can effectively manage mystery snail breeding and maintain a balanced aquarium ecosystem without facing issues of overpopulation.

To breed mystery snails, you’ll need both male and female snails. However, identifying their sexes can be tricky. One method is to observe their shell openings: females have two holes, while males have one blocked hole. Another way is to watch them mate, with the male typically positioned on top.

To prepare them for breeding, increase their food gradually and lower the water level by 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) to provide ample space for egg-laying. Female snails may lay anywhere from 50 to hundreds of eggs, resembling elongated blackberries. Ensure a tight-fitting lid to maintain warmth and humidity for successful hatching.

After 1–4 weeks, the baby snails will hatch and resemble miniature adults. Use a sponge or pre-filter sponge over the filter intake to prevent them from being sucked up. Alternatively, you can hatch the eggs in a separate container lined with damp paper towels to maintain high humidity.

Once the eggs change color and are ready to hatch, transfer them to a floating breeder box in the main tank. This protects them and makes feeding easier. After a few days, when the hatchlings are the size of peas, they can be released into the main tank. This method helps ensure the survival of the baby snails and allows you to observe their colors before deciding which ones to keep.

Care Guide for Amano Shrimp — Nature’s Amazing Algae Eater

Algae can pose a common problem in aquariums when there’s an imbalance of light and nutrients, quickly overtaking the tank. While various methods exist to control algae growth, introducing an algae eater into the tank proves to be one of the simplest, safest, and most effective approaches. Renowned aquascaper Takashi Amano often relied on these small Japanese shrimp, now known as “amano shrimp,” to maintain cleanliness in his planted tanks, establishing them as a popular choice among aquarists.

What are Amano Shrimp?

Amano Shrimp, scientifically known as Caridina multidentata (formerly Caridina japonica), are dwarf shrimp commonly sought for their algae-eating abilities. They typically reach sizes of about 1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm), slightly larger than Neocaridina cherry shrimp. These shrimp are transparent with a tan or gray-blue tint, sometimes influenced by their diet, and sport a solid stripe along their back. Males are smaller with dots along their body, while females are larger with dashes in place of dots.

Despite not being the most visually striking shrimp, Amano Shrimp exhibit fascinating behaviors. They’re often seen grazing for food with their front legs, climbing plant leaves, and stealing food from larger fish. A notable advantage is that they don’t interbreed with cherry or crystal shrimp, eliminating concerns about hybridization. Moreover, they cannot reproduce in typical freshwater tanks as their larvae require highly brackish or saltwater environments to survive. Thus, if you observe a female tending to eggs beneath her tail, don’t expect to see baby shrimp in your tank.

How to Set Up an Aquarium for Amano Shrimp?

To set up an aquarium for Amano Shrimp, it’s important to consider their natural habitat and needs. Originating from East Asia, including countries like Japan, Taiwan, and Korea, they thrive in both freshwater and low brackish waters. Amano shrimp are remarkably adaptable to various water parameters, tolerating temperatures ranging from 65–82°F (18–28°C), pH levels between 6–8, and moderate to hard GH. To support healthy exoskeleton molting, which is crucial for crustaceans, ensure some mineral content in the water by adding products like Wonder Shell or Seachem Equilibrium, especially if your water tends to be soft.

Amano shrimp have a low bioload and don’t require group housing, making them suitable for most nano tanks or larger setups. However, it’s essential to provide a tight-fitting lid as they are skilled escape artists. Cover any openings where power cords or airline tubing exit the tank to prevent them from escaping. Creating a lush environment with live aquarium plants and decorations is ideal for Amano shrimp. This setup allows them to graze throughout the day and find hiding spots during molting periods.

What Do Amano Shrimp Eat?

Amano shrimp are opportunistic scavengers and will readily consume a variety of foods. They have a diverse diet that includes fish foods, blanched vegetables, biofilm, rotting leaves, and algae. While they will eat algae, they may prefer other food sources if available, so reducing feedings for a few days can encourage them to tackle algae growth. Although not as efficient as snails at consuming flat types of algae on surfaces, Amano shrimp are effective at consuming hair algae, thread algae, and even black beard algae if present in the aquarium. Additionally, they excel at picking up leftover food particles from tight corners and small crevices.

Feeding them foods enriched with calcium, such as shrimp foods and Hikari Crab Cuisine, can support successful molting. If you notice an empty exoskeleton in the tank that is clear (not solid-colored), leave it for the shrimp to consume as it provides additional minerals.

Overall, offering a varied diet and ensuring they have access to suitable calcium sources will help maintain the health and vitality of Amano shrimp in the aquarium.

(Berried female amano shrimp with eggs under her tail)

What fish can live with amano shrimp?

Amano shrimp can coexist harmoniously with a variety of peaceful community fish due to their sociable nature and non-breeding behavior. They are compatible with similar-sized tank mates such as tetras, Endler’s livebearers, corydoras catfish, bristlenose plecos, kuhli loaches, other shrimp species, and snails. However, it’s essential to avoid housing them with fish large enough to prey on them, such as medium to large cichlids, barbs, and goldfish.

Furthermore, Amano shrimp are known for their voracious appetite and may outcompete smaller dwarf shrimp and slower eaters for food. Therefore, it’s advisable not to keep too many Amano shrimp with smaller dwarf shrimp or other slow-eating tank mates. By selecting compatible tank mates in terms of size, temperament, and feeding habits, you can create a peaceful and thriving community aquarium environment.